On the west coast of the New Zealand South Island in the Alpine range sits one of 3 glaciers, Fox Glacier. The proximity of these peaks to the sea in part gives New Zealand one of its most iconic and beautiful landscapes.
Fox Glacier, located in the heart of New Zealand’s South Island, is a premier destination for ice climbing enthusiasts and exploring Glaciers. Renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty and accessible glacial terrain, Fox Glacier offers unique ice-climbing and hiking experiences that attract the adventurous from all over the world. In this guide, I’ll share my experience of this exhilarating adventure of ice climbing on Fox Glacier, providing essential information for anyone considering a visit to this extraordinary New Zealand attraction.
Why Choose Fox Glacier for Ice Climbing?
Fox Glacier is not just an ordinary glacier; it’s one of the most accessible and dynamic glaciers in New Zealand, offering a unique environment for ice climbing. Fox Glacier like many around the world is officially in a state of retreating. This constantly changing landscape of Fox Glacier presents climbers with varying levels of challenge, making it suitable for both beginners and experienced climbers. The sheer beauty of the surrounding alpine scenery adds to the allure of ice climbing in this region.
Whether you’re new to ice climbing or a seasoned pro, Fox Glacier has routes that cater to all skill levels. Beginners can learn basic techniques and safety measures from skilled guides, while experienced climbers can tackle more challenging ascents, ensuring an adrenaline-filled experience for everyone.
Guided Ice Climbing Tours
Safety is paramount when it comes to ice climbing, and Fox Glacier offers guided tours led by experienced and certified guides. These experts provide climbers with the necessary equipment, knowledge, and support, making your ice climbing journey both safe and enjoyable.
On the Glacier you have options of activities you can do from viewing, hiking, climbing or helicoper rides; In my case I chose Ice Climbing. It was my first time viewing a glacier and my first experience ice climbing. Despite the years that have passed, my 3 nights staying here and my day on the glacier are etched into my memories and I made notes which I recently found on an old hard drive of my experience.
My Experience of Ice Climbing on Fox Glacier
On the edge of Mount Cook National Park lies Fox Glacier. With Aoraki sitting at 3724m the glacier drops about 2600m close to the peaks. It is fed by 4 smaller alpine glaciers, draping dramatically from the peaks. It then feeds into Fox River and the Cook River before heading out to coast. I chose to do the hike and climb for this tour which to this day is one of the best experiences of my life.
As I approached the western side of New Zealand’s South Island, the weather was a mix of rain and uncertainty. The Tranzalpine train journey, though shrouded in rain, offered breathtaking views of the dramatic landscapes. Upon arrival, the Fox Glacier Guide hut presented me with a choice: a possible cancellation due to poor weather or rescheduling my ice climbing adventure. This uncertainty is a common aspect of visiting Fox Glacier, where weather can change rapidly.
Determination Amidst Weather Challenges
Despite the possibility of cancellation, my excitement for ice climbing at Fox Glacier remained undiminished. The next day, many tours were canceled, but my guide, an epitome of expertise and reassurance, suggested proceeding with adjusted plans for safety. This flexibility is essential for anyone visiting Fox Glacier, as conditions can rapidly change.
Adorned in hired waterproof gear and briefed about safety, I prepared for the climb. Everyone was cancelling their trips, asking for money back. Most guides were also suggesting canceling or shortening trips.
The weather continued to challenge us, with rain and limited visibility, but my guide said we could wait to hear back from the helicopters coming down and make a decision.
The visibility was poor, the rain was continious and the temperature was dropping but my resolve was firm. Afterall I’m English and Northern, this is all I knew, Interestingly, my enthusiasm influenced two fellow male climbers who were over-visiting from Israel. They had been asking to cancel like everyone else there and thought I was crazy to still want to go.
I’m not sure if it was due to me opting to go still or the adventurous spirit of being in New Zealand but they both joined (yay, I wasn’t alone).
The Journey Towards Fox Glacier
The trek towards the glacier was an educational experience, led by our knowledgeable guide. He enlightened us about the local ecosystem, the unique formations of glaciers, and the dynamic environment of Fox Glacier. This part of the adventure is crucial for anyone visiting Fox Glacier, offering insights into the natural wonders of the region.
When You First View The Glacier
As you prepare for your ice climbing adventure at Fox Glacier, it’s essential to anticipate the dramatic temperature shifts. The day of my journey was notably chilly, but as we approached the glacier, a perceptible cold emanated from its vast expanse, intensifying the chill in the air.
Initially, the glacier’s appearance might not match the quintessential images of icy blue crevasses and stunning ice caves often depicted in photographs. The glacier’s surface layer, especially the part first encountered, is covered with a blanket of rock debris. This debris, having fallen or been dislodged by the glacier’s movement, forms a dark, gritty layer that masks the icy beauty beneath.
Even under conditions of limited visibility, the grandeur of Fox Glacier is undeniable. The sheer size of the mountains looming over Fox Valley is awe-inspiring, and the glacier itself seems to stretch endlessly into the horizon. The soundscape of the glacier adds to its mystique. The echo of water running beneath and through the ice, coupled with the occasional loud creaks as the ice shifts, creates an eerie, almost haunting atmosphere.
A striking yet poignant moment was witnessing a large section of the glacier calving, breaking away with a thunderous crash, just as we neared the glacier’s mouth. This spectacle, resembling the rumble of an earthquake or violent thunder, was as fascinating as it was disheartening, a stark reminder of the accelerated impact of global warming on these ancient ice formations.
After about 40 minutes of trekking up the trail, we veered onto the glacier itself. It’s crucial to note that entering the glacier too close to its terminus is unsafe due to increased instability—a fact underscored by the earlier ice fall we observed. On the glacier, we spent an hour navigating its surface, equipped with crampons. We explored several small ice tunnels and arches, marveling at the beauty of the glacial melt running through them, creating intricate tunnels.
Reaching the designated climbing areas, we received instruction on the ice’s characteristics, identifying suitable (and unsuitable) climbing spots, and the proper techniques for using ice axes and crampons to conserve energy. After practicing traversing an ice wall, we embarked on vertical climbs along several shorter routes. As the day progressed, the weather grew colder, and visibility decreased.
We took a brief respite under a parachute, sipping warm drinks to fend off the chill and shield ourselves from the biting wind. Opting to skip a full lunch, we snacked quickly between climbs to maximize our time.
We managed three longer climbs, each about 30 meters, set up by our guide during our break. However, a radio call from the Fox Glacier guides base soon alerted us of an approaching storm, urging our return. Despite the abbreviated duration of our adventure—nearly four hours of climbing in a planned five-hour day — the experience was intense and fulfilling.
It left me imagining the added exhaustion and joy that a full seven-hour day, with clearer visibility, would have brought.
My Impression Of My First Time Ice Climbing
This experience at Fox Glacier, a mixture of awe, learning, and adaptation to the whims of nature, encapsulates the spirit of ice climbing in New Zealand. It’s a journey that challenges the body and the mind, offering rewards that extend far beyond the physical realm.
Following this we soon got a radio call from the Fox Glacier guides base that we needed to start heading back as there was a storm on its way.
So we still managed to fit in almost four hours of climbing which felt pretty intense considering.
I have now experienced how exhausting and fun this would have been having the full 7-hour day (instead of our four) and the views with clearer visibility. Hopefully, I can go back here and experience it all again, or potentially head higher in the glacier.
If you haven’t done ice climbing before, it is really fun but also very tiring. Here are a couple of tips:
- Work on your grip endurance regularly if you get a chance before this (and different grip ranges to prepare).
- Expect a similar forearm ‘pump’ to that of doing overhangs when rock climbing, and aching shoulders and back (the lattisimus dorsi muscles especially), when you start to tire you are likely going to exaggerate the movement with the axe and compensate here.
- Expect some soreness in the toes from kicking your crampons into the ice.
- Don’t forget to take a dry bag for your camera or phone (the guys I was with had waterproof cameras but they still got moisture in and died after being exposed to hours of atmospheric damp and cold). I didn’t and used my old beginner DSLR it worked great (considering the weather and auto click-and-go approach I have) I just kept it on auto and had it in a dry bag when not in use.
- If you aren’t sure what to wear, usually you can hire boots (like I did) and extra layers, but if you like the outdoors and winter activities I would recommend wearing your own stuff any day.
- Since this trip, I’ve done quite a lot of Ice Climbing Trips, glacier hikes, and more winter hiking. I prepared a guide on what to wear and when ice climbing here.
- Obvious Tip: Don’t forget when you’re tired and walking with crampons, to pick up your feet. I learned the hard way and managed to fall on my knees when walking down (I’m sure I’ve mentioned my clumsiness in other posts, it’s a recurring theme).
Hiking and Other Activities on Fox Glacier
Apart from ice climbing, Fox Glacier offers a range of activities such as scenic helicopter flights, hiking trails and even an overnight experience.
Other Experiences in Fox Glacier Town
Fox glacier is both the name of the glacier and the small town 6km away from the glacier. If you have been or are planning to visit the country you will realise there are quite a few town names that are also named after a place of interest (or it could be the other way around); and there counties are self explanatory in most cases (Far North in Northland on the North Island, West Coast, Southland etc).
The town of Fox Glacier reminded me of a european alpine ski village but on a smaller scale and slightly more modern architecture. The highlight of the town is the glacier but there are also a number of tramping trails nearby as it mountains are covered in bushland and forest including:
- The Minnehaha trail.
- Lake Matheson is a short route from the town with the reflection of Aoraki on a clear day.
- There are also some glow worm caves not too far from the town which you can walk to.
- Another experience I really wanted to do, but couldn’t afford both was skydiving. I couldn’t think of a better place to skydive than over Aoraki and the seeing the dramatic glaciers, mountains, rainforest, and coastline from above. The skydive was 15,000 or 18,000 ft.
Accommodation in Fox Glacier
I stayed overnight in the Fox Glacier Pod Hostel and Inn. It was clean, comfortable and the staff were lovely. It cost me about £15 per night in a shared dorm (in summer). Although they advertise as mixed dorms, they purposefully try to fill with the same sex and you can request but are not guarenteed. This is the cheapest place in town from a recent check.
If you have a slightly more modest budget, I met some lovely people on the coach (that I am still in touch with) who recommended Fox Glacier Lodge and Lake Matheson Motel.
How To Reach Fox Glacier
Via Car
If you have come via arthurs pass (Route 73) head south down Route 6 and continue till you’ve passed Franz Joseph and you will eventually hit Foz Glacier.
If you are coming from Wanaka or Queenstown again stay on the route 6 and head north.
Either way stop a lot and really enjoy the views at pull over points (don’t just take pictures if you can take your time).
Via public transport
I took the Tranzalpine train from Christchurch – Greymouth via Arthurs Pass, then from Greymouth I hopped on an Intercity coach down to Fox Glacier
I had pre booked this and I had a flexipass with intercity (I will expand upon that in another article for those of you planning big trips to NZ or working holiday), it was just that simple. There wasn’t much waiting around in Greymouth.
Transport links in New Zealand are geared up for tourists. The timings of coaches on the intercity network are timed to allow for rest stops in towns along the way and to connect with ferries and the three trains (Tranzalpine, Transcoastal and Overlander). Some of the major stops and tours start times are aligned with these too.
Summary of Ice Climbing and Hiking on Fox Glacier
Ice climbing on Fox Glacier is an unforgettable experience that combines adventure, natural beauty, and the thrill of conquering one of New Zealand’s most iconic glaciers. Whether you’re seeking an introduction to ice climbing or looking to challenge your skills on new terrain, Fox Glacier provides an ideal setting for an extraordinary adventure in New Zealand.